Abies sp.

There is a consensus that the beeches need fast draining
soil to exist, as they are susceptible to root rot, and
will not tolerate stagnant water on their root crowns.
However, according to SILVICS OF FOREST TREES IN THE U.S., 
the beech (at least Fagus grandifola, anyway) will grow in 
poorly-drained soils with a high seasonal water table  
(from 6"-10" beneath the surface) as long as the root crown
is not suject to prolonged flooding.  Such trees will have a
shallower root system, and probably will not reach maximum
size, but they will grow in poorly drained soils (ie. soils
with seasonal high water tables).  I'm not for sure, but I 
think when the books say avoid "wet" soils, they mean soils
that have low permeability, such as heavy clay.

There is a consensus that the beeches need fast draining
soil to exist, as they are susceptible to root rot, and
will not tolerate stagnant water on their root crowns.
However, according to SILVICS OF FOREST TREES IN THE U.S., 
the beech (at least Fagus grandifola, anyway) will grow in 
poorly-drained soils with a high seasonal water table  
(from 6"-10" beneath the surface) as long as the root crown
is not suject to prolonged flooding.  Such trees will have a
shallower root system, and probably will not reach maximum
size, but they will grow in poorly drained soils (ie. soils
with seasonal high water tables).  I'm not for sure, but I 
think when the books say avoid "wet" soils, they mean soils
that have low permeability, such as heavy clay.

There is a consensus that the beeches need fast draining
soil to exist, as they are susceptible to root rot, and
will not tolerate stagnant water on their root crowns.
However, according to SILVICS OF FOREST TREES IN THE U.S., 
the beech (at least Fagus grandifola, anyway) will grow in 
poorly-drained soils with a high seasonal water table  
(from 6"-10" beneath the surface) as long as the root crown
is not suject to prolonged flooding.  Such trees will have a
shallower root system, and probably will not reach maximum
size, but they will grow in poorly drained soils (ie. soils
with seasonal high water tables).  I'm not for sure, but I 
think when the books say avoid "wet" soils, they mean soils
that have low permeability, such as heavy clay.

I am a new "BONSAI" owner. I bought it for my b*day, (26 October 97). It is a "CARMONA". The information that I have found says it's in the fig family. I also found this, ...EHRETIA SP....!. It does not seem to be a popular tree. However, I seem to be killing it. The leaves are shriviling up, (oops on spelling). I have heard about the many "foods" not to feed it. I have miracid, as well as some other plant foods. However, I have only been giving her (SHARA) a weak solution of sugar rain water. The leaves stopped dropping off, but they look like they are just barely holding on... 

HELP ME and SHARA (carmona/ehretia sp).

New on aol, not sure of address/e.mail information. My personal id is is "GonStorm". 

GonStorm

how do you make peat muck for root over rock ?

I purchased a young gingko tree in a one-gallon size can last year and was very impressed and happy
watching it grow overnight so rapidly.  Well, it grew approximately 4 feet and just stopped growing.  
It hasn't branched out or anything either.  It is just one tall 4-ft single trunk with leaves and 
as of now the tips of the leaves are turning yellowish brown.

Could someone please let me know what is going on with my gingko tree?  I would be so sad and devastated
if I lose this tree.  I love gingkos and have always admired the ones I see that are healthy looking in 
some landscaping.

Thank you for any advise you can give.

Belen Estrada
 

I have been looking high and low for some growth rate 
information on Cotoneaster salicifolius (willowleaf 
cotoneaster).  I have recently purchase enough to create
a privacy hedge and am looking for SUPERGROWTH!  Can you 
assist me????
Many thanks.

Could someone please give me some information about Abies koreana 'Horstmann's Silberlock'?  A dear friend has 2 and is wondering about its natural growth habit.  The plants appear as if they may have been heavily pruned in their youth and are now sending up a tall, disproportionate terminal leader.  Should she prune back the terminal to encourage denser growth in keeping with the early pruning or should she allow the plant to take on its natural shape?  What IS the natural shape?  Please help with info.  

                        Thanks!

Could someone please give me some information about Abies koreana 'Horstmann's Silberlock'?  A dear friend has 2 and is wondering about its natural growth habit.  The plants appear as if they may have been heavily pruned in their youth and are now sending up a tall, disproportionate terminal leader.  Should she prune back the terminal to encourage denser growth in keeping with the early pruning or should she allow the plant to take on its natural shape?  What IS the natural shape?  Please help with info.  

                        Thanks!

Japanese Larch is much hardier than zone 5.  My have survived and flourished in the ground for years here at the Canadian border of Vermont. They require no winter protection and have withstood temperatures of 45 below with no dieback.

Japanese Larch is much hardier than zone 5.  My have survived and flourished in the ground for years here at the Canadian border of Vermont. They require no winter protection and have withstood temperatures of 45 below with no dieback.

 I planted 105 english boxwood plants inthe spring of 96
and about 30 of them are turning brown or already dead. I
haven't been able to find out why. any suggestions?

Natal Plum grows very well outdoors here in Mesa, AZ. 
It can be used as tight, impenetrable hedges because
it grows dense and has very sharp thorns.

Could someone please tell me if it is possible to root a crepe myrtle at home from a flower or a branch????? 

I need to know if this is possible.

Thanks!!!!!
yankee@flash.net

Could someone please tell me if it is possible to root a crepe myrtle at home from a flower or a branch????? 

I need to know if this is possible.

Thanks!!!!!

wheres a pic of the mimosa?

   About a year ago I purchased a semi-cascade black olive bonsai.  I had been keeping it as a indoor bonsai  and it started losing its leaves. I did not know what was wrong with it and I started getting worried. I put it on my back porch and started doing better. Then about a month after  put it on my back porch it started to lose it's leaves again, but in there place grew new, bright green leaves. 
  So if your olive starts losing it leaves just put it on  your back porch if you have one, if not place it outside

I'm interested in the korean fir for outdoor use.  I have found 2 different sites with info on the tree, but one said it's hardy to zone 4, while the other said zone 6!  I live in zone 4 and I don't want to kill it.  So which zone is it?  Also can you tell me where I can purchase the Korean fir?  Thank you for your help.  Sincerely Mrs. Jami Carpenter

I bought my father a fig tree for his birthday. I am not sure
what type of tree it is but it already had small green fruit.
I just want to know if he can replant the tree right away,or 
should he wait.I also bought him a planter that was 3 times
the size of the pot the tree came in, because they may be 
moving in the next few years and he would want to take it 
with him.

O Thankyou for your information nobody could help me from the people from which i bought this plant. i would like any information on this plant from others people from the web sight.

take a look to www.netxpression.com/ramboo

esto va a ser en castellano. Tengo una coteneaster bastante floreada, la pregunta es:
despuΘ de que tiran las flores ┐lo que sobra se convierte en fruto?

gracias!!!!!!!!!!

esto va a ser en castellano. Tengo una coteneaster bastante floreada, la pregunta es:
despuΘ de que tiran las flores ┐lo que sobra se convierte en fruto?

gracias!!!!!!!!!!

I have a male holly bush that is in need of a good trimming. My fear is that 
I will end up killing it. How do I trim so that I won't kill it.

Can anyone tell me how to find information on the tree acacia
autacocapa?

My landscaper is putting in Quince in the front yard which faces West.  He is planning to plant them along with junipers.  From everything I've read, this doesn't seem to be a great idea.  Also, we live in Ohio, winters can get well below freezing for weeks at a time.  What, if any suggestions should I make regarding his planting of Quince?

Hello

I live in the Azores islands. Over here, we grow Cryptomerias
(we call them this way) usually for timber,
I'd love to know some more about the issue, since we cut them
at the age of 30 years, which I don't know if it's the
correct age to do it...
Some info on the matter, some links, anything would be
appreciated and thanked for!
Best wishes... and thanks in advance
Antonio

Desparetly need help. Inherited 2 pine and 1 maple trees.Don't have the foggiest idea how to care for them and don't want them to die. Bookstores in my area don't have a thing about Bonsais.I put them three quarters of the way in the ground as I'd seen him do. Now what?? I would deeply appreciate any help I can get. Thanks for listening.

What is the biggest market for Adenium plants? From where is it fed currently? Is there any data available.
How does one pollinate adenium flowers to get maximum seed?
Answers will be very helpful.

I actually need some advice on a small bonsai which I have. I'm not at all sure of which species it is.  My question is this.  I rescued a small bonsai from someone who was not taking care of it.  It's small, with branches and needles.  The trouble is the needles are all brown.  The base of the tree is covered with small rocks which are glued to the base of the (top) of the container.  There is a little hole in the rocks, which I presume is for watering.
How do I get the branches and needles healthy again. Fertilizer perhaps, or should I un-glue the rest of the rocks?  The bonsai doesn't seem to be getting any nourishment.  I don't want this little bonsai to die.  Any info you can send would be great.  I'm sorry I couldn;t be more speficic.

Can someone please give me some information on Silver Cypress
Bonsai trees. I cant seem to find any info on this such plant.
Everytime i look up Cypress, false cypress or other types 
appear. Please if anyone has any information, please email
me. 


Thank you,

Magroot99--Pete

Posts concerning Abies:


Date:         Thu, 14 Mar 1996 05:22:56 -0500
Reply-To:     Internet Bonsai Club 
Sender:       Internet Bonsai Club 
From:         DuCheval@AOL.COM
Subject:      Re: Tree of the Week: ABIES!

I was also dissappointed to see so little response regarding firs.  I have
only one Abies native to my area and I have only just begun to experiment
with it.  Abies balsamea (balsam fir, or as we always called them, sapbubble
trees).  So far I have found them to be rather interesting projects.  The
foliage is flat like hemlock and yew, bright to dark green, with a white
stripe on the underside of the needles.  They seem to be very easy to
transplant, collect, pinch, prod, mutilate, etc.  Almost all have nice
buttress' at an early age, and they bud back on old wood.  I've found them
growing in full shade and full sun, and in acidic to akaline soils.  I'm not
sure if they have a preference.  I haven't notice any wind damage as with
other evergreens (Zone 3), or drought damage.  They seem to like being on the
wet side but don't seem to suffer when it is dry.  It is also one of the few
confiers that the deer won't eat.  I have several in the works that were
collected last year, and depending on how they survived the winter, I will be
working on designing them, and trying more pruning experiments.  I will be
introducing shari to one.

I will keep you updated...

Jim Thomas (Da Yooper)

=================================================================

Date:         Thu, 14 Mar 1996 21:43:54 -0800
Reply-To:     Internet Bonsai Club 
Sender:       Internet Bonsai Club 
From:         Anton Nijhuis 
Subject:      Re: Douglas Fir

>
>As previously noted, the true firs, Abies, require a very cold climate. They
>would be suitable for Sweden, Yellowknife, or Whitehorse. The rest of us grow
>spruces if we care for that type of tree. OK, now somebody from Podunk in
>Zone 8 is going to tell us he grows a fir.
>Iris

Iris,
I am in zone 8a and I grow, Abies lasiocarpa, Abies procera, Abies amablis,
and Abies grandis (Sub-Alpine, Noble, Silver and Grand) and one I can't
figure it's a cross between a Balsam and something else, not suppose to be
Balsams on Vancouver Island . They all do quite well, some bonsai well
others - well - they still look nice.

Anton Nijhuis - Vancouver Island

=================================================================

Date:         Fri, 15 Mar 1996 17:38:06 +0100
Reply-To:     Internet Bonsai Club 
Sender:       Internet Bonsai Club 
From:         Bonsamurai aka Stefan Sandstrom
              
Subject:      Re: Douglas Fir

Iris wrote:

>As previously noted, the true firs, Abies, require a very cold climate. They
>would be suitable for Sweden, Yellowknife, or Whitehorse. The rest of us grow
>spruces if we care for that type of tree. OK, now somebody from Podunk in
>Zone 8 is going to tell us he grows a fir.

I have always considered Abies as not hardy, so I grow Spruce insted!!!
(Isn't that witty?) There r only very few Abies that are hardy in Umea. But
there r some. Same with Taxus... I will get a couple of Abies this or next
year. (Just to try them out...)

But, fact remains, in Southern Sweden u can grow as many Abies and Taxus
species as u wish!


>I have a crocus in bloom!

Sounds nice! Here spring is yet a far way away... We had a VERY cold night
last night... But we have had some thaw going on. This means (of course)
that it is mortally dangerous to go out cause all the ground is covered with
slippery ice!




--
The Bonsamurai in the North of Sweden


      - If monogamy is the natural order of things,
      - then there are an AWFUL LOT of freaks running around.
=========================================================================


Date:         Fri, 15 Mar 1996 22:27:09 -0500
Reply-To:     Internet Bonsai Club 
Sender:       Internet Bonsai Club 
From:         Jean-Pierre Giguere 
Subject:      Re: Abies in Sweden

>I have always considered Abies as not hardy, so I grow Spruce insted!!!
>(Isn't that witty?) There r only very few Abies that are hardy in Umea. But
>there r some. Same with Taxus... I will get a couple of Abies this or next
>year. (Just to try them out...)
>
                      Did you try Abies balsamea, here, in Quebec, it grows
to the artic circle et make nice bonsai. Want some seeds?

                             Jean-Pierre.
Jean-Pierre Giguere
1159, rue Roy,
Chicoutimi, Qc
Canada.
G7J 2W7

(418)545-4759

jpgi@saglac.qc.ca
=========================================================================



Date:         Sat, 16 Mar 1996 19:46:35 -0500
Reply-To:     Internet Bonsai Club 
Sender:       Internet Bonsai Club 
From:         Hilda Denza 
Subject:      Re: Abies

At 01:05 PM 3/16/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Sabrina:  Nice start on our tree of the week.  What's next; I saved
>this one, but have little hope of ever growing an Abies down here in
>Florida.
>
>--
>Jim Lewis - jkl2@freenet.scri.fsu.edu
>            Cool the Earth . . .
>            Plant a Tree!
>
>

Jim,
A few years ago on The Vicotory Garden (PBS) they covered a public garden in
Australia where an Abies was happily growing. Maybe you should try one to
see if you can. If it starts to droop you could always pass it on to a more
northern grower! I'm sure there would be plenty of volunteers :-)

Hilda
=========================================================================


Date:         Mon, 18 Mar 1996 22:47:13 -0500
Reply-To:     Internet Bonsai Club 
Sender:       Internet Bonsai Club 
From:         Jean-Pierre Giguere 
Subject:      Re: Abies in Sweden

In a message dated 96-03-16 19:01:37 EST, you write:
>
>I do believe we live in the same part of the world, it sounds like we are
>neighbors!  Balsam fir grow like weeds around here and is one of the few
>conifers that weren't burnt by the 50 belos temps (windchills too!).  I have
>several that I am "working on".  I would be interested in hearing more about
>their use for bonsai.

                  Jim,

        I have been working hard on 3 trees and a forest of 7 trees of Abies
balsamea for a couple of years. I have troubles with this species. I treat
it a little like Taxus but the results are not the same. I let the new
growths grow till they reach 3 or 4 inches than I cut to 1/2 inch. But the
ramification is very poor. Each time a new growth appears on the trunk or a
big branch, it grows so fast that you easily lost control of it. Moreover,
the apical growth is always enormous. Presently, I am trying new techniques.
This spring, I will begin to see the results. I am dying for spring..
        For all those reasons I prefer to work with Picea glauca and Picea
mariana. But I will not quit.

                     Jean-Pierre.
Jean-Pierre Giguere
1159, rue Roy,
Chicoutimi, Qc
Canada.
G7J 2W7

(418)545-4759

jpgi@saglac.qc.ca
=========================================================================


Date:         Thu, 21 Mar 1996 16:43:48 -0500
Reply-To:     Internet Bonsai Club 
Sender:       Internet Bonsai Club 
From:         DuCheval@AOL.COM
Subject:      Re: Abies in Sweden

In a message dated 96-03-18 23:11:05 EST, you write:

>
>        I have been working hard on 3 trees and a forest of 7 trees of Abies
>balsamea for a couple of years. I have troubles with this species. I treat
>it a little like Taxus but the results are not the same. I let the new
>growths grow till they reach 3 or 4 inches than I cut to 1/2 inch. But the
>ramification is very poor. Each time a new growth appears on the trunk or a
>big branch, it grows so fast that you easily lost control of it. Moreover,
>the apical growth is always enormous. Presently, I am trying new techniques.
>This spring, I will begin to see the results. I am dying for spring..
>        For all those reasons I prefer to work with Picea glauca and Picea
>mariana. But I will not quit.
>
>

Jean-Pierre,

There is a pruning technique that works rather well;  you completely remove
all of the new buds before they unfold.  This will promote tons of back
budding and little buds all over the place, even on secondary branches.

Take care,

Jim Thomas

                         ***************

=========================================================================

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